Find every water shutoff in your home before you need it
A burst pipe, an overflowing toilet, a washing machine hose that lets go — these give you seconds to make a decision. If you know where to go, you stop the damage. If you don't, water runs while you search. Do this walkthrough now, while nothing is wrong.
The main shutoff
This is the valve that cuts water to the entire house. Find it first.
Where to look:
- Basement: Usually on the wall facing the street, near where the water line enters the house
- Crawl space: Same general location — where the supply line comes in
- Utility room or closet: Near the water heater or mechanical systems
- Outside: At the meter box (usually near the street or curb) — this is the utility's shutoff, but you can use it in a true emergency; it may require a special key tool
- Garage wall: In many newer homes and warm climates
The valve will be either a gate valve (round wheel handle, turn clockwise to close) or a ball valve (lever handle, turn 90° so it's perpendicular to the pipe to close).
Test it once a year. Valves that haven't been turned in years can seize. Spray with penetrating oil if it's stiff and turn it slowly. A valve you can't operate in an emergency is useless.
Toilet shutoffs
Behind or underneath every toilet is a shutoff valve — usually oval or football-shaped, on the wall behind the toilet near the floor, or under the tank. Turn it clockwise to close.
This is your first move if a toilet is overflowing and won't stop. Turn the shutoff, then deal with the cause. If the shutoff valve doesn't work (they fail), the secondary move is lifting the float in the tank to stop water flow while you get to the main shutoff.
Sink shutoffs
Under every sink there are two valves — one for hot and one for cold — usually on the supply lines going up to the faucet. They work the same way: clockwise to close.
These are your shutoffs if a faucet fails to turn off, a supply line connection starts leaking, or you need to replace the faucet. Know they exist before you need them.
Appliance shutoffs
Washing machine: Hot and cold supply valves behind the machine. These should be closed when you're away for an extended period — washing machine hose failures are a leading cause of catastrophic water damage.
Dishwasher: Usually a shutoff under the sink on the hot water line that feeds the dishwasher.
Refrigerator with ice maker: Shutoff valve behind or under the fridge on the water supply line.
Water heater: Both a cold water inlet valve (on the water supply going in) and a gas shutoff if it's gas-fired. The gas shutoff is a separate system.
Gas shutoff (separate system, important)
If you smell gas:
- Don't flip any switches or use electrical devices
- Open windows
- Leave the house
- Call your gas utility from outside or a neighbor's phone
The main gas shutoff is on your gas meter, outside. Turning it off requires a wrench and should only be done by the utility to turn it back on — they need to come inspect and relight pilots.
Know where your meter is, but understand the gas utility handles reactivation.
Make a map
Walk the house and write down where each shutoff is. Label valves with masking tape if they aren't already labeled. Share the location of the main shutoff with anyone who lives with you or watches your house.
If you have a new-construction home, the builder may have included a schematic of plumbing locations — check the paperwork.
Quick reference
| Shutoff | Location | How to close |
|---|---|---|
| Main water | Where supply line enters from street (basement/utility room/outside) | Turn clockwise (gate valve) or 90° (ball valve) |
| Toilet | Behind/under toilet, on wall | Turn clockwise |
| Sink | Under sink, on supply lines | Turn clockwise |
| Washing machine | Behind machine on hot/cold supply | Turn clockwise |
| Water heater | On cold inlet line | Turn clockwise |
Do the walkthrough now. Test the main shutoff. Label everything.